She said her spring looks, inspired by the romantic English pre-Raphaelite painters, was her way of bringing a little beauty back to the catwalk â¿¿ and the closet. "It's a reaction against the world right now. I want to bring back poetry to the way we dress."Sui also infused a little bit of the 1960s, seemingly her favorite fashion era, to her new romantic vision. There were shifts and vests, tapestry bags, gladiator sandals and Balinese headdresses. She always has a youthful style, but this time, she didn't go too young. The blousoned chiffon styles, lovely crochet lace sweaters and vests, and dresses with a touch of mesh, were a little more adult. "I guess I'm a little more grown-up now," Sui said. ___ BIBHU MOHAPATRA Known for elaborate eveningwear, this up-and-comer's runner was most notable for chic daywear. "Even in the daytime, you can mix in some fancy things. That's my DNA," Mohapatra said. Black trousers had an unexpected and flattering colored pleat down the leg, and the pleats of a bright yellow dance dress formed a geometric pattern. Flowers bloomed in the pleats of his floral skirts as models made their way to the photographers. Of course, there were gowns, too, including a coral-colored floral with a scarf halter top and tightly folded pleats. "Yes, four different kinds of pleats," he said. "Some of them were hand done and took hours!" ___ ELIE TAHARI Fashion designers love to talk about timeless classics, but even the best looks can use a little makeover to freshen up. Tahari's spring collection celebrates 40 years of his company and its defining style, but, he said, he had to make the clothes fit the new context. "When I look back it was always a 'lady' behind the things I liked best. Sometimes we were caught in trends I'd rather not repeat," Tahari said.