Other top picks from Singer included Michael Kors, for "modern pretty clothes," and Narcisco Rodriguez, for a cut that fit like a glove.

There wasn't, however, a huge, groundbreaking swing from aggressive tough girl to a hippie chick, for example â¿¿ and don't expect that to happen again soon. You'll notice the evolution of a tight, nipped shoulder to a rounder, softer one, or skinny jeans to wide-leg pants instead, Singer said.

"You realize it has shifted when you feel like you are in the wrong thing," she added.

Don't start the shopping list just yet, though. While the New York previews ended Thursday night with Marc Jacobs, there are still weeks to go in London, Milan and Paris.

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MARC JACOBS

Jacobs closed eight days of spring previews with a memorable show, for sure. He put on a stifling parade of dripping hot models against a decaying beach backdrop in an armory that felt like a billion degrees.

Catwalkers, including Cara Delevingne, wore high-necked wool and lace numbers decorated with tassels and beads on a boardwalk above black sand strewn with garbage and an abandoned bus.

The lucky models wore Hawaiian print Bermuda shorts and sequin tourist sandals, the flat Velcro-close ones that grandma might wear with socks.

That floral print, though, turned into some fabulous eveningwear that wasn't as exaggerated as some of the opening dresses, but with the same drama. Which front-row celebrities â¿¿ Drew Barrymore, Winona Ryder, Julianne Hough or Hailee Steinfeld â¿¿ will wear them first?

Jackets with puffy sleeves and wide shoulders seemed most likely to land on the must-have list of Jacobs fans or the coolest marching band player you know.

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CALVIN KLEIN

The name on the label still reads Calvin Klein, but the women's collection is clearly Francisco Costa's now.

It's been 10 years since Klein picked the Brazilian-born designer as his successor, and Costa presented his anniversary collection this time around.

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