|Sierra Nevada Brewing CEO Ken Grossman says Sierra Nevada's Asheville, N.C., expansion will yield better beer.|
Grossman: We'll probably be able to do some more fun stuff here in Chico. We're continuing to experiment and come up with some really creative stuff, but it's really tough with as busy as it's gotten. It's a real stress on our company right now to keep doing things like Hoptimum. We're brewing around the clock and we're just about out of brewing capacity. Once we can relieve some of that, it'll allow us some more breathing room to do some boundary-pushing out of this brewery. That plant is going to be designed to do more than 300,000 barrels initially and ultimately double or more than double. It'll pick up some of the East Coast volume out of that plant, though we'll continue to ship some beers out of Chico. We're going to set it up with some open fermenters and be able to do some of the unique beer styles like Kellerweiss and Bigfoot that we ferment in open fermenters. We're going to duplicate that aspect out there and take some pressure off our fermenters in Chico. What's capacity in Chico at this point? Grossman: This year we'll be somewhere over 900,000 barrels, maybe 950,000 even. We're off to a really strong first month and a half to two months of this year. Sales are up close to 20%, which isn't too shabby for us. We don't think it will end up being that much for the year, but we're looking at close to double-digit growth for this year. That's significant growth considering your brewery was producing fewer than 800,000 barrels at the end of 2010. Where is that increased demand coming from? Grossman: Torpedo has been a pretty significant success. It was up close to 60% last year and it looks like it's trending right about there this year. We're still growing Pale Ale in most markets, and brands like Ruthless Rye have taken off pretty well as seasonals.
Grossman: We're pretty much distributed throughout the country, but we have some pockets of the country where our distribution isn't what we'd like to see. In some cases it's just the distribution channel we've selected. They're not performing as well as we'd like to see and in some cases we may be with wine distributors or distributors who aren't as focused on outlets like beer bars and other areas that require a different service level. We're always evaluating where we need to invest our time, energy and dollars to help build those distributors' markets and boost share in the growth of the brand. I'd imagine it takes quite a bit of research to determine the best location to invest in a brewery that's going to increase your capacity by about 65% or so. What drew you to Asheville? Was it the business environment in North Carolina or the beer community that picks up its beer at Bruisin' Ales and helped brewers like Highland Brewing, Green Man, Pisgah and a bunch of other breweries get off the ground? Grossman: It was a combination of a number of factors. We looked at a lot of cities and states around that area that worked well with our markets in terms of where we were growing and where we saw our future growth. The Asheville area worked well for both the Southeast and Northeast market share we're developing. We like the community. There's a beer awareness and it's a fun and eclectic town that we thought would be a good place to land. It's got a lot of outdoor activities, and a lot of our employees like to hike, fish and kayak and do those kids of outdoor sports. Cycling's real big there, so it fit as far as a town we wanted to live in and have our families stay. My son is planning on moving out there with his wife. Your son Brian, Sierra Nevada's general manager, is going to run the Ashville brewery. Each of your two daughters have worked for Sierra Nevada in various capacities as well, and all of your children own a percentage. What is it like to have one of the few legacy craft breweries and how do you feel about handing the business down to the next generation? Grossman: You just hope they don't screw it up. My oldest daughter has been involved since she was in junior high school. My middle daughter as well. She just had her second child, but she's planning on coming back in a full-time role here shortly. My youngest, my son, has been involved since before he went to college and after and his dream is to continue on in the brewing business, so I'm going to try to help all three of them stay engaged and hopefully be successful.
Grossman: Well we're sending a handful of people back to be involved in the eastern brewery. It's not only my son, but we're sending back the head brewer and our logistics person who's been with us for a number of years ... We've already got someone on the ground out there working on the paperwork, community stuff and the building. We're going to try to get as much as we can of Chico out there early on and our plan is to bring people back here from Asheville for a while as well. It's something that we have thought about quite a bit, so hopefully we'll be able to make the cultures mesh and work well together. There won't be too much autonomy. They'll have some areas where they'll do their own thing and we'll do ours, but as far as production and shipping is concerned they'll stay coordinated. I know the Chico facility has made a big commitment to sustainability that's included putting a solar array atop your brewing facility, using hydrogen fuel cells and carbon dioxide recovery systems and converting your trucks to hybrid power and biodiesel fuel capability. Will you be exporting some of those ideals to the East Coast brewery as well? Grossman: Most definitely. We actually are the first people in the property that we'll be building on, so we've been able to set the standard for development. It's going to be minimum LEED Silver in the area surrounding our brewery and we're planning on being exemplary in doing a lot of the things we've done in Chico on the environmental front. Have climate change and shifting grow zones affected your ability to maintain a sustainable brewery in Chico, and is it a factor you're considering in Asheville? Grossman: We've done what we felt was the right thing to do, so we've put into place a lot of policies, procedures and internal metrics and invested pretty heavily in things like solar, our organic garden that we provide our restaurant with, our composting and our hop fields. Will you have a local hop source on the East Coast or will you be shipping West Coast hops out there? Grossman: Directly across the river from our site is the horticultural college at the University of North Carolina, and they're actually raising some hops there right now. Whether or not they'll actually be a viable crop, we'll see.
Even though California used to be a big hop-growing region, it's really tough to get the kinds of yields and quality out of California hops. The day isn't quite long enough to get yields out of most of the varieties. It's not just the hops that have a bit of a problem back east. Sam Calagione, the head of Dogfish Brewing in Delaware, took to the boards on beer ratings site BeerAdvocate a few months ago to defend his and other beers from beer geeks who claimed some craft beers were overrated because their palates had outgrown them. Jim Koch, founder of Boston Brewing and creator of its Samuel Adams beers, used the first post on his company's blog to address the same topic. Have you received any similar pushback from people who've been your core drinkers, but whose tastes have expanded beyond the core product? If so, have the new varieties assuaged that animosity a bit? Grossman: I'd say yes and no. We hear quite often that a lot of drinkers come back to our Pale Ale after wandering and experimenting. With all the boundaries that have been pushed during the last few years, it's created a lot of excitement around craft beer and has increased a lot of knowledge of beers and different styles and qualities that were unknown a few years ago. From that standpoint, I think the brewers' education has been fantastic. Some people have insatiable desire for hoppier, stronger, more esoteric styles, and now there's been a pretty great increase in appreciating sour beers and beers that were pretty limited in the U.S. There are some great ones being brewed now. But there's always a place for our classic Pale Ale, and we hear that a lot. After people wander, even though they still may be experimenting, they still want a beer that they can have a couple beers of and not have a full assault on their palate. We're hopefully providing what our consumers want from consistency for our Pale Ale drinkers, but also providing Torpedo or Hoptimum for people who want something more extreme. It's tough to drink those beers day in and day out as your only beer from the alcohol standpoint and high bitterness levels. They're great beers to consume occasionally, but probably not your only beer you're drinking. Even your Pale Ale, which is your flagship beer and functionally a gateway craft beer, it's still a fairly bitter beer, yet a great example of a West Coast IPA that made your growth possible. What is it that still draws drinkers to that beer? Grossman: I think it has the character we look for in all our beers, whether they're really hoppy or somehow distinct. They've got balance and drinkability and even when we were pushing the boundaries for Hoptimum, we wanted it to be extreme but we wanted it to be drinkable. It's hard to strike that balance, but our Pale Ale does a great job of being somewhat assertive but having a great balance. When you're not drinking Pale Ale or one of your own beers, what beers are you drinking? Grossman: When I'm traveling, I gravitate to the beers that people in the area are brewing, so I don't have a real favorite. We're good friends with Vinnie Cilurzo at Russian River Brewing and my son's a huge fan of the sours, so we have those around the house pretty regularly. I've learned to appreciate a lot of the interesting flavors and nuances. My son and Vinnie just did a collaborative beer called Brux that should be out in the next few months or so. They bottled all of it within the last two weeks, but it'll be a unique twist on what we do and what Vinnie does. -- Written by Jason Notte in Boston. >To contact the writer of this article, click here: Jason Notte. >To follow the writer on Twitter, go to http://twitter.com/notteham. >To submit a news tip, send an email to: firstname.lastname@example.org.
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