Some folks are attracted to
As for me, I was pulled to
Mumbai the WaysideAfter a 15-hour flight from Newark, N.J., to Mumbai, I had an eight-hour layover in this most populous Indian city, which has an arresting mix of gleaming new office towers next to street beggars and stray dogs. I then took a short flight to Visakhapatnam, in northern Andhra Pradesh. While this is a city of three million people, it is more traditional than cosmopolitan: I spotted only a handful of Westerners in the airport, and the women were all dressed in traditional saris. I was greeted at the airport by Samuel, who founded the Sharon Children's Home. He bestowed me with a garland of fresh marigold blossoms, and we set off on the four-hour drive to Karapa. As we traveled into the countryside, I attracted a fair bit of attention. I was clearly a foreigner -- one person asked for my autograph when we stopped for gas! Andhra Pradesh is obviously not a tourist hot spot. While it was nice to be noticed, I was totally unprepared for the highways and byways of India. Pedestrians jostled with cattle, trucks veered around elephants and bicycles jockeyed for position with ox carts. Did I mention the monkeys? After twenty minutes, I felt overwhelmed and closed my eyes. Nevertheless, I arrived without a scratch. Since India is 10 1/2 hours ahead of New York, it was now almost two days after my departure. But it was worth every minute: at the orphanage, thirty children were waiting to shower me with rose petals. This place was no Taj Mahal, but everyone there treated me like royalty.
A Warm Reception
|A Dedication Feast|
Culture ShockBefore my trip, I prepared for just about anything. I had taken pills for malaria and a vaccine for typhoid. I brought extra medication and three pocket-sized flashlights (which came in handy, since the electricity failed every day). But nothing can prepare you for the oppressive heat and humidity in South India. At the dedication dinner, I managed to sweat completely through my ceremonial attire -- and this was in early September, which is after the hottest part of the year. It was consistently over 90 degrees, with nearly 100% humidity, even at night. Naturally, sleeping was a big challenge. I stayed in Samuel's house, so I was lucky to have a ceiling fan. The marble floor also helped, and I found out this is common to homes in the area. (Marble stays quite cool, and local quarries offer an inexpensive supply.) The windows didn't have glass or screens, but rather metal bars and wooden security shutters. Thankfully, insects were sparse, and I had no trouble with mosquitoes. Small geckos occasionally darted across the walls, but they were more of a curiosity than a nuisance. Travelers who want to avoid the heat should visit in January or February, when this region averages 70 to 80 degrees. Avoid travel during October through December, as this is monsoon season. And don't even think of going during May or June unless you are prepared for temperatures well over 100 degrees.
More Than a GameDuring my week at the orphanage, I had plenty of time to play with the children. Despite the language barrier -- most people in Andhra Pradesh speak Telugu -- this proved the best way to bond with them. I did learn a few words of Telugu, and the children all called me "Dad," which is a sign of affectionate respect. It seemed to me that English is widely embraced in the region, and is no longer associated with the colonial rule under the British Raj. Frisbees were a big hit, especially one that glowed with optical fibers. On Sunday evening, when it got dark, I put the illuminated Frisbee on a wall, and we watched it change colors. The kids quickly memorized the pattern and called out the colors by name. Granted, it may seem silly to have two dozen people staring at a glowing Frisbee. But keep in mind, there are no computers, TVs or even radios to be found here.
|A Smile Needs No Translation|
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