Saved Money Is Worth MoreIn the future, a dollar saved out of then-current income will be worth far more than a dollar earned. A retiree who cuts $100 out of then-current living expenses will be way ahead of the retiree who works a post-retirement job in order to make $100. That's because the earned $100 will be reduced by taxes to far less than $100. That's especially the case if the coming crunch in Social Security and Medicare funding requires substantial hikes in payroll taxes. But the benefits of saving don't stop there if you link saving in the present with investing right now, as well. That way, every dollar saved now not only lowers the size of the income you think you'll need in retirement, but, through the power of annual compounding, it increases the nest egg you'll have for retirement.
First, Find Dependable SavingsIt starts where all savings strategies start: with you poring over your budget, looking for places where you can spend less or nothing at all. But in this search, you're looking for something very specific: a savings annuity. Most savings advice suggests that you start with easy substitutions that will reduce your spending. Bring lunch from home instead of buying it near the office a couple of times a week, for example. Advanced savers move up to actual denial. Skip that double latte at Starbucks. I understand this advice. Saving is hard work. It's easier when each individual sacrifice is small. And small sacrifices do add up. Consider that in October, the personal savings rate in the U.S. fell to just 0.2% of disposable income. Except for the statistical fluke in October 2001 caused by September's terrorist attacks, it was the lowest monthly level ever recorded, stretching back to the start of the survey in 1959. At that rate, calculated Lehman Brothers economist Drew Matus, an individual with an after-tax income of $40,000 saved, on average, $1.50 a week. Saving the cost of a Starbucks latte would represent a huge improvement. But this kind of savings isn't well-suited to an investing strategy, because the cash flow it generates is so undependable. The decision to save must be made over and over again, week after week, to reach an investable amount like $50. And the money saved must make it from your pocket into some kind of investment account without being hijacked by some other consumption temptation.
Make Saving AutomaticHere's an example from my own recent personal budget. Last month, as I sat down to write a check for the two storage rooms I rent to stash the accumulated overflow of things from my New York apartment, I stopped short. I hadn't visited either room in months, so how much did I really need all the stuff I was paying to store? After a hard and dirty day's labor I managed to throw away enough that I could consolidate the two rooms into one. Savings: $74 a month, every month. And once the room was turned back to the storage company, it was hard to undo the savings. I'm sure you can find similar savings annuities in your life. I'm looking at my phone and cable bills to see if I can cut the costs of those services, at my homeowners insurance to see if I can find a cheaper policy, and at my brokerage services, where I've just consolidated and moved two accounts to save monthly service fees. Of course, that $74 isn't saved yet. If it just gets commingled with the rest of the money in my checking account, I'm pretty sure I'll wind up spending it without even noticing it. So, the next step is to make sure it goes automatically into an investment account. My employer, Microsoft, has set up its payroll system for electronic direct deposit and I can allocate my paycheck among several accounts. To make sure the $74 really does get saved, I set up my electronic direct deposit to put the entire amount straight into an investing account. (If your employer doesn't offer you this alternative, you can set up an account with
Mind the CostsThere is a hitch. I haven't found the ideal cost-effective vehicle to execute the strategy. The trade-off is between paying too much in transaction fees and needing too much money to open an account. So, for example, most stocks and ETFs cost too much in commissions if you buy them through a traditional or even an electronic broker. You certainly don't want to be buying $74 worth of stock each month, even if the commission is just $8 a trade. That's almost 11%. You can use a service like ShareBuilder.com to buy shares cheaply even if the company doesn't have a direct purchase option. ShareBuilder charges just $4 per transaction (and remember, you can set these up so they're automatic). But that's still 5% on a $74 savings investment. ShareBuilder has expanded its services to include low-cost purchases of exchange-traded funds (ETFs). It still costs $4, or 5% on my $74 monthly purchase, but it does give far more diversification than you'd get by buying a single stock. Two ETFs that look good for a savings-investment strategy are the Vanguard Extended Market Index Viper ( VXF), which tracks the entire market, and the Standard & Poor's MidCap 400 SPDR ( MDY), which tracks the Standard & Poor's MidCap 400.