In Uruguay, Old-World Charm, Old-World Prices

Uruguay is not a very high-profile country among North Americans, but that obscurity has an upside.

The country is not overrun by legions of tourists, it does not impose sticker-shock on international travelers, its people are not jaded or blasé when visitors come calling and it has welcome surprises to offer.

Not least among those surprises is the gently crumbling colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento, with its mellow patina of age, tree-lined streets, lively cafes and snug bars, cobblestone plazas and the lovely, vintage architecture that has made it a UNESCO world heritage site.

Colonia, as it is known for short, was once a thriving, fortified port, built by the Portuguese in 1680 before the Spanish took over. That history bequeathed to Colonia a rich mix of Spanish and Portuguese buildings, most of which survive in the Barrio Historico -- the historic neighborhood. ...