In the Battle of the Boozes, Aperitifs Hit Below the Belch

	A Cocktail Comeback?

While Campari is a household name in its native Italy, cosmopolitans -- or Heinekens -- spring to mind as predinner drinks in the U.S. Hence the raised eyebrows when I ordered a Campari and soda recently at a New York City snack bar.

With U.S. marketing campaigns like Dry Sack's "the aperitif moment," liquor brands want to convince me that the buy-one, slosh-one-down special at happy hour is crass and irresponsible.

I have to admit, it's a tough sell for me, given my penchant for drinking Guinness through a straw, but I accepted the Campari from my waitress as my friend eyed the drink with suspicion.

The taste initially had evoked a slight essence of cough syrup, but as my palate adjusted to the foreign bouquet, it took on a subtle herbal quality, not unlike Anis or a much more demure cousin of Jagermeister.

I gladly tasted more and felt a slight, yet cultured buzz as I ate a piece of bruschetta and my friend stole a sip. He's 10 years older than me and loves a pint after work or with dinner. "Why am I supposed to like this?" he asked, leaving me wondering if I was responding to my taste buds or just the hype.

An aperitif, coming from the Latin "to open," is a light alcoholic drink designed to spark the appetite, not drown it. ...