Givenchy, Kenzo, Chloe Get Tough, Celine Delights
Chloe makes ready-to-wear that's ready to wear and doesn't pretend otherwise.
This honest attitude was on full display in Clare Waight Keller's collection of 41 highly wearable looks.
If the ensembles seemed disparate, it's because a cohesive "concept" is perhaps not needed when much is said in the quality of each individual, saleable garment.There were some neat ideas in blue and neutral black, white and gray. A multicolored thick-striped silk dress had a geeky, graphic look. Elsewhere, a gray jumpsuit played on the shape of overalls with long straps and deep-scooped collars. There were rings in the model's ears, shiny zippers and buttons â¿¿ what the designer called "hardware elements." But then â¿¿ to end the show â¿¿ two diaphanous skirts, in billowing black and white tulle, looked anything but hard. JOHN GALLIANO Draping and geometry peppered Bill Gayten's show for John Galliano, delivered on-trend in a dark winter palette including plum, black and shots of white. "A strong woman with a disciplined silhouette," the muse as per the program notes, saw the idea of severity evoked in leather straps around waists and some stiff paneling. For instance, the show's opener in deep blue, a structured jacket, mid length skirt and pants, sported a strong look with jagged tectonic knife pleats. Halfway through, however, the teal series featured some rather clumsy shapes; and the creative message was elusive on several white ensembles with rather unflattering speckled prints. But Gayten saved the best until last, with a series of fantastic column silhouettes that plunged down in shredded silk or in draping. ___ Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP
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