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NY Fashion Week Opens With New Fall Trend: Freedom

"I have some of his clothes in my closet," she said. "I'm kind of a uniform girl. I wear jeans and tank tops a lot."

TADASHI SHOJI

Shoji'js frosty muse was dressed in high-neck washed keyhole gowns decorated in lace, then made a quick change into a white neoprene capelet with navy metallic lace and a flouncy white-and-navy gown underneath.

A red tulle-and-lace gown with black beaded cutouts also seemed special.

Fabrics were heavy and embellishments rich.

Some of the looks seemed a little costumey, but the opulence worked for the black-tie show-stoppers and an ivory gown with a pearl-encrusted bodice that would be an out-of-the-box â¿¿ and fabulous â¿¿ choice for a super-luxe winter wedding.

CREATURES OF THE WIND

Just last season, Chris Peters and Shane Gabier were focusing on intricate couture techniques.

Their more masculine looks for fall also included a broad double-lapel jacket in black kidskin, ivory vinyl and olive wool worn over a black cotton and ivory vinyl shirt and a houndstooth plaid trouser in black and yellow.

A coat of navy and black wool and black vinyl was paired with a navy wool twill trouser.

A more feminine and pretty look came in a dress with a black kidskin top and a jacquard bottom in "broken geometry" of bright blue, green and olive.

The two designers have risen fast in the fashion world. Vogue editor Anna Wintour sat across the room from model-actress Dree Hemingway, Mariel's daughter and the great-granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway.

Gabier and Peters say one of their chief inspirations this season was the Memphis movement, an Italian design collaborative from the 1980s that specialized in colorful furniture, fabrics and other objects.

KENNETH COLE

An opening video beamed on multiple walls in a vast Chelsea basement acknowledged that much has changed in the world since Cole last showed during Fashion Week â¿¿ and how important social media is to the industry.

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