Dining 'Under the Arches' of the Japan Rail in Tokyo

I come here every time I come to Tokyo, hoping it still exists. The lanes are jerrybuilt and improvisational, putting Yakitori Alley at odds with the sleek, planned modernity of 21st century Tokyo, and therefore it is always under threat of being leveled. So far, Yakitori Alley has survived, attracting a comfortable mix of students, white-shirted "salarymen'' and foreign visitors.

Yakitori Alley has not just yakitori to offer. It also has tiny restaurants that specialize in soups, stews, seafood and noodles. Even in winter, some eateries are open on the street side to the elements, though all are roofed. The best way to pick a restaurant is simply to stroll the lanes, watching the food being prepared just inside, and then deciding what looks and smells good. If you don't speak Japanese, you order by pointing; very few of the restaurant-keepers speak English.

This point-and-order method led me to a great meal -- a bowl of soba soup sprinkled with scallions and stocked with noodles fresh-made from flour and water before my eyes. I occupied one of six stools in a shop that was roofed but wall-less. The bill for lunch was 375 yen, about $4. Nourishing and delicious, it kept me going all day.

Finding Yakitori Alley can be tough -- a common problem in jumbled, bustling Tokyo with its population of 30 million. To get there, take the west exit from Shinjuku station -- said to be the world's busiest rail and subway hub, with 3 million passengers a day, it's easy to get lost there. Walk toward the elevated Epson sign, hugging the outside of Odakyu department store and pass the bus stop. At the bottom of the hill, look right.