Champagne Tips From a Pro

Are there any little-known Champagne houses that you recommend?

Philipponnat is not famous, but makes great Champagne. They make a prestige cuvee called Le Clos des Goisses. Most people don't know about it.

In France, all the greatest wine makers are going biodynamic. It takes 10 years for the government to say you're organic, and even more time to become biodynamic. Jacques Selosse is one of the premier biodynamic Champagne makers today.

What will you be serving at your restaurant for New Year's?

I serve a non-vintage called Chapuy, which is one of the best values I've found in small growers. I don't do mass-produced Champagne like Veuve Cliquot, I want Champagne that's made with love.

I might pop my Dom Perignon 1998, 1996 grand dame. I have Cristal 2000. You can pop it for $750. It was rated 98 by Robert Parker.