These Men's Shoes Are a Step Above

 

No matter how bad the economy gets or how high gasoline prices go, there's still no substitute for fine gentlemen's shoes.

In a business world going ever more casual, and "upscale" getting increasingly out of reach, how does one find something suitably classic without breaking the bank?

Here's a short guide to some of the best-value, most-affordable gentlemen's classics, all of which I've tested over many years. These are the types of men's shoes that can always be expected to complement a fine suit or blazer -- and remain in style no matter what other monstrosities the fashion world throws out.

Manufacturer and Style
Alden Shoes wingtip and monk strap.

Price: $390 for the wingtip and $385 for the monk strap.

I own the monk strap (that's a plain shoe with a large buckle on the side) in black, and the wingtip (or "brogue," for anglophiles) in dark brown suede.

The monk shoe is simple and elegant, and almost guaranteed to stay in style no matter what. The suede brogue has extremely fine antiquing detail. For the uninitiated, "antiquing" refers to the holes punched into the leather or suede, which then make the classic brogue patterns.

Alden's makes robust shoes with very large shanks. While the shanks will make airport security guards jump out of their skin, at least your feet will get lots of support. If you know you are going to walk a lot and need to look stylish, Alden's is the one to go for, even if they do cost a tad more.

My only beef is that the buckle on the monk shoe could be larger (and brighter), and the brown of the suede could be a tobacco brown, rather than its actual darker cousin.

Manufacturer and Style
Loake Oban.

Price: £105, or about $210.

The Oban is a lace-up toecap oxford with extensive antiquing on the cap of the toe. It's a classic that can just as easily be worn with a blazer as a suit. I own a pair in a highly polished brown.

Outside of the U.K., Loake's must be one of the best-kept secrets in gentlemen's shoes in terms of value for money. It's possible to get less-expensive classics, but they will likely look cheap and undesirable.

Manufacturer and Style
Alfred Sargent Bromley.

Price: £155, approximately $310.

The Bromley is a classic mid-brown suede Chelsea boot with wide elastic side gussets. It is easily my favorite shoe, currently.

The elastic side gussets on the boot are wider than for many Chelsea boots, and that makes for greater comfort. It also means it's less of a hassle to put them on.

The snuff suede color is also far more appealing than the standard dark brown suede of most shoes.

The manufacturer says the color, which it calls snuff, has been discontinued -- but still the same shoe can be obtained in dark brown suede and black. However, when I spoke with someone at the factory, I was told the company would be happy to make a pair in the snuff color if desired.

Manufacturer and Style
Allen Edmonds Hale.

Price: Listed at $325.

I've had versions of this toecap classic in both black leather and dark brown suede. It's reasonably priced and fairly comfortable. However, I have found that the shine doesn't hold as well on the leather versions as could be hoped for. Still, it's a reasonably priced shoe with all the elements one should expect in a classic oxford style.

Hale by Allen Edmonds, classic toe cap shoe.

Shoe lovers not wanting to travel to the U.K., or who want to find a deal on Loake or Alfred Sargent shoes, should take a look at Herring Shoes or Pediwear Shoe Center.

Also -- remember when ordering from the U.K. that the sizing is different, typically by one size. A U.S. 10 is equivalent to a U.K. size 9.

To take better care of your classic shoes, use a shoehorn when putting them on, and insert cedar shoe trees when you aren't wearing them. Both of those things should extend the life of the shoes significantly.

Also, unlike rubber-soled shoes, leather-soled ones can easily be repaired. Rather than simply taking your investment of $300 or so to the local cobbler, return the shoes to the original manufacturer.

The company will take off the sole, refinish the leather and remake the items. It's basically like getting back a brand new pair of shoes -- only better, because they'll already be broken in for your feet.

I've had shoes last a decade by having them recrafted. Given that the classic styles of men's brogues don't change much, there's little danger of them going out of fashion.

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