Out-of-the-Way Places in Hawaii

As the ferry nears Manele Bay, you catch sight of the signature look of the Hawaiian Islands: Rugged mountains shrouded in clouds, sheer cliffs, golden sandy beaches fringed with green palms rustling in the trade winds, white-capped surf and ocean water changing from aquamarine to darkest blue as you move out to sea.

After making landfall on Lanai, you can rough it, or you can pamper yourself.

If you want to rough it, it's best to rent a Jeep and explore the backcountry on the island's miles of unpaved tracks, or put on sturdy boots and hike.

Some popular destinations for drivers include 3,400-foot Lanaihali and the dramatic sea cliff Sweetheart Rock, accessed through stands of ironwood and pine trees.

Another popular choice is the Garden of the Gods, with its otherworldly formations of red rock and unforgiving landscape. On clear days, the views of water and sky -- and Maui and Molokai -- are spectacular.

Pampering can start just up the hill from the harbor at the Four Seasons Manele Bay Resort, with its breezy patio seating and hanging gardens. A shuttle bus runs from the resort every 30 minutes along a road lined on both sides with pine trees.

The shuttle stops at the modest, 10-room Lanai Hotel in grandly named Lanai City, where most of the island's residents live. There's nothing much to do in Lanai City, but maybe doing nothing is the point.

	Malibu Surf Rider Beach

Just past Lanai City is the Four Seasons Lodge at Koele, a large, handsome wooden compound built in a mountain retreat style and flanked by the Experience at Koele golf course, designed by Greg Norman. The hotel also includes an old-fashioned croquet field. There's no booking; you just walk over and pick up your ball and mallets and whack away. The lodge's Terrace restaurant is a good spot for lunch.

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