For those who can wait, the grand dame of Hvar hotels is the Palace, on the main square. It will be fully renovated in time for 2009's high season.
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The Palace Hotel
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Eating in Hvar
Of all the restaurants we tried, including Macondo and Gariful, we found the best food at the new
Bonj Les Bains Beach Club.
Built in the 1930s as a boat- and bath-house, a dramatic stone colonnade along the seafront is now home to a hip beach club and spa under a dense sky of pine tress. Grab a cabana by day and work on that tan while listening to DJ house music and noshing on locally grown specialties and sandwiches.
The restaurant offers all-day dining with a healthy organic menu that's currently a grazing ground for the island's sexiest singles.
In the evening, Hvar mimics Italy as the town slowly comes alive with dressed-up locals making their pilgrimage to the various benches along the harbor's main promenade.
Octogenarians share gossip with lifelong neighbors and chat up tourists between rounds of chess. The yachts along the harbor slowly come to life as butlers ready the dining room tables and the rich come to eat lobster in full view of all who pass.
The eateries along the water are mostly pizza shops and bars disguised as restaurants. Make your way to
Lucullus (021/742-498) off the main square for traditional Croatian slow-cooked food like Brodeto stew and grilled meat plates that take three hours to prepare.
Michael Martin
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