Custom-Made Suits: If You're Rich, Dress Like It

In New York, the names of the elderly Asian tailors on higher floors of Upper East Side brownstones are kept closer to the chest than vests by the elegant men who patronize them.

But one name came out -- Craig Robinson, a New Mexico transplant who has been shaking things up with what he calls his "sexy hit man, very playboyesque" line of menswear -- think Daniel Craig's version of 007.

Robinson, whose suits have graced the likes of edgy actors like Willem Dafoe and rockers such as Coldplay's Chris Martin (Mr. Gwyneth Paltrow), Interpol and Death Cab for Cutie, suggests that the first-timer go with a charcoal grey rather than the expected black.

"What's really nice is a Wellington or Calvary (worsted twill), super 120 (weight) all-season wool. You can go to work in it, and go out at night afterward. It's very nice and romantic," he says.

For the slightly more daring, Robinson recommends a Prince of Wales plaid -- "a much more subtle plaid" than one might expect, "very, very classy."

While you're at it, get a vest: Not only will vests be very "in" this autumn, but as Robinson points out, "You can take off your jacket and still be 'wearing a suit,'" as well as mixing and matching the vest with other jackets or suits. He also usually tries "to get someone to buy two pairs of pants" at the time of the suit, since trousers tend to wear out before jackets.

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