Best of the Best

Where to Eat in Buenos Aires

 

In Buenos Aires, a new generation of stylish and diverse restaurants has rejuvenated the city's food scene, which traditionally centered on barbecued beef and pastas.

Because of the favorable exchange rate, Buenos Aires is one of the few world capitals where you can have a memorable dinner for less than $25. No wonder this cosmopolitan city is one of Latin America's most popular destinations.

Here are some of B.A.'s best restaurants, each representing a different cuisine:

Creative

Sucre
Executives, socialites and epicures frequent this spot with warehouse aesthetics: huge windows, concrete walls, exposed beams and battered wood floors.

Celebrity chef Fernando Trocca prepares elaborate dishes that defy labels. His menu includes salmon ceviche with Peruvian potato terrine and passion fruit sauce, braised lamb with a mint and rosemary marinade, and shrimp risotto with smoked corn.

Sucre 676;
+5411/4782-9082.

French

Brasserie Petanque
Although many people say Buenos Aires has a Parisian flair, French food is surprisingly hard to find in the city.

Petanque is one welcome exception. High ceilings, big old windows and an austere decor give this corner spot a true brasserie feel.

The food, by chef Sebastien Fouillade, is equally traditional: rabbit stew, escargots, beef Bourguignon, tarte tatin.

After lunch or dinner, explore the surrounding neighborhood of San Telmo, where the storied cobblestone streets are filled with antique shops and impromptu tango performances.

Defensa 595;
+5411/4342-7930

Steakhouse

La Cabrera
This parrillada is not one of Buenos Aires' traditional steakhouses, but it quickly became a classic. The casual atmosphere -- exposed brick walls and simple wood tables -- lets the food take center stage.

Beginners might want to stick to popular cuts like asado de tira, or rib strip, and ojo de bife, or sirloin rump steak. For excess' sake, order a side of provoleta, grilled cow's milk cheese seasoned with herbs.

More adventurous patrons should try the mollejas, grilled sweetbreads, or chinchulines, lamb chitterlings.

Cabrera 5099
+5411/4831-7002

Fusion

Osaka
This Japanese-Peruvian restaurant proves, contrary to myth, that you can have excellent seafood in B.A.

The sleek, sober space with polished wooden walls is filled with discerning locals who come for the varied raw menu -- sushi, ceviches and tiraditos (sashimi-style fresh fish with different marinades and sauces) -- and dishes like calamari filled with prawns in a sake infusion.

Sometimes the noise level can be high, but the flavors make up for it.

Soler 5608
+5411/ 4775-6964

Buenos Aires Coffee House

Italian

Sottovoce
At this elegant but casual ristorante, the quality of ingredients is key. Chef Alejo Waissman, who worked at the Ritz in Paris and Spain's Arzac, created a traditional Italian menu with dishes such as olivas ascolanas (olives stuffed with veal), tagliolini puttanesca, (ribbons with tomato, hot peppers, anchovies and capers) and chicken piccata. Fresh fish are brought in daily from the market and prepared simply.

For dessert, the homemade gelatos and tiramisu are hard to pass up.

Avenida del Libertador 1098
+5411/4807-6691

Vegetarian

Casa Felix
The popularity of Puertas Cerradas, meaning "private" restaurants with no visible signage, took off in the last year. Chef Diego Felix takes the trend one step further, by offering a mostly vegetarian menu in a city that loves meat.

The five-course dinner, served in Casa Felix's patio during the warmer months, usually includes a fish entrée, which can be substituted for a veggie alternative. Diego scours his native country -- and beyond -- to find organic and exotic vegetables, such as huacatay, a Peruvian black mint.

Guests share one long table with 12 seats, in a casual, friendly atmosphere.

Reservations required. Open Thursday-Saturday.

+5411/4555-1882

>To order reprints of this article, click here: Reprints

Paola Singer is a freelance writer based in New York City. She has written for The Wall Street Journal, Newsday and Hemispheres magazine.

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