Beckhams Ski in Spain, and So Can You

"You're going skiing in.... Spain? Do they even have snow?" was the bewildered response I got from friends when I told them what I was doing last weekend.

Yes, you can go skiing in Spain, and one of the best places to schuss down the slopes is in the upscale ski resort of Baqueira-Beret, tucked in the Aran Valley of the Spanish Pyrenees. It's the biggest resort in the area, and where the Spanish royal family goes skiing each year (they own a chalet in the area).

	Hitting the Slopes, Spanish Style
	Credit: Spanish Tourism Board

Victoria Beckham skied here in 2006 when her husband was playing for Real Madrid, and the paparazzi took shots of her standing around the ski slopes with an exposed midriff, much to the amusement of the locals.

Even car companies are discovering the resort; last month supermodel Bar Rafaeli shot an ad for Subaru in Baqueira-Beret. But Ms. Beckham seems to be one of the few visitors who come to Baqueira-Beret in full Chanel ski gear. Although the clientele is definitely moneyed -- every other car seems to be a Porsche Cayenne, BMW X5 or Audi Q7 -- the overall quotient of furry boots, Gucci sunglasses and Ferraris roaring around is kept to a minimum.

Baqueira-Beret is really a quietly posh resort, unlike its flashier European counterparts like Gstaad or Courchevel. On the slopes, there are only coffee bars and casual cafeteria-style restaurants, and the après-ski scene is pretty quiet. It's a laid-back resort, and extremely friendly.

It's also easier than you think to get here. The nearest major international airport is Toulouse, 140 kilometers away, or Barcelona, 200 kilometers to the southeast. Most of the resort's visitors are Spaniards from Madrid or Barcelona -- so Baqueira-Beret makes an ideal getaway if you happen to find yourself in one of those cities on business.

The Slopes

Just how good are those slopes? The Alps they aren't, but the resort has 4,749 acres of skiable terrain, and has a vertical drop of 3,282 feet. There are more than enough trails to keep you busy for a long weekend or a good five to six days of skiing.

The entire resort consists of three different zones, Baqueira, Beret and Bonaigua. On my visit, Baqueira was the most crowded, so I spent the majority of my time on Beret and Bonaigua, where the pistes were wide and blissfully uncrowded, and most were blue runs. Some of my favorite trails were Mirador, Solei and Ta Arguls.

Where to Stay

The only five-star hotel in the area is La Pleta, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. Like most of the surrounding buildings, the exterior is made of wood and stone, and interiors carry the natural theme, with floors made of local slate.

For a luxury resort, the hotel is surprisingly unsnobby. In the morning, most guests come down to breakfast wearing fleeces and ski pants, and everyone takes a leisurely approaching to skiing. By 10 a.m., most people are still munching on the extensive buffet, and no one seems to hit the slopes until nearly noon.

There's an onsite ski-rental shop, Mr. Moga, which is owned by the former ski instructor to the Spanish family. The walls of his shop are lined with old photographs of him relaxing with Queen Sophia.

	La Pleta Hotel
	Credit: La Pleta

La Pleta offers a complimentary two-minute shuttle ride to the nearest chair lift, Tanau, and ski butlers are on hand to help you load your skis on the car. At the end of the day, they will whisk away your skis and tuck your boots onto a boot warmer.

In the evening, a complimentary snack like soup is offered in the lobby and most people warm themselves in front of the massive fireplace, tucking into a few San Miguels.

La Pleta also has the one thing that every ski hotel should have: a spa, to help put together aching bodies. The subterranean Occitania spa opened in 2005 and offers a wide range of massages, facials and pre and post-ski therapies. Skin-care products are by Erno Laszlo, and the signature treatment is an Aran Valley Honey Massage (€110), where a concoction of local herbs and warm honey is dripped on your back and massaged into your skin.

If you'd rather relax at your own pace, fork over €25 for a hydrotherapy experience where you start off in a Jacuzzi, hit the steam room and then plunge into a tub full of ice-cold water -- before getting an alternating hot-and-cold shower.

Where to Eat

Arran Valley food is widely considered some of the best in Spain, and it's a French-Spanish hybrid, but you won't experience the gourmet stuff on the slopes. Most of the food is served in cafeteria style restaurants, with stick-to-your-ribs fare like spaghetti Bolognese or baked chicken with fries.

To find the gourmet food, head to the nearby village of Arties, where you'll find Casa Irene ([phone]), a favorite of King Juan Carlos of Spain. Other good choices include Eth Taro ([phone]) while Eth Rastille (+ 34 973 641 539) is more casual and serves typical Aran Valley food.

Where to go for Apres-Ski

Most people head back to their hotel for a few drinks at the bar, but if you're looking for more action, head to Arties. There's an outpost of the superclub Pacha and swanky bars include La Luna ([phone]) and Millennium ([phone])

Non-Ski Activities

If you want some non-ski activities, sign up for a dog-sledding excursion to the nearby abandoned village of Montgarri through D'Aran Mushing or book a quad biking excursion though Motor Sport Adventure (606 35 33 82).