Why Champagne May Be Getting Even Better

After Selosse had a falling out with his former importer, his champagnes have been difficult to find in the U.S. in the past few years, though Wine-Searcher.com shows bottles available at stores in many major U.S. cities, for upwards of $125 a bottle. Even in these days of the weak dollar, that represents a big markup over the European price. But Selosse recently signed up with The Rare Wine Co., an importer in Sonoma, Calif. Most of the initial shipments -- "microscopic" this year, he says -- probably will be earmarked for fine restaurants. Selosse says he will increase the quantities for the U.S. next year.

The good news is that Selosse's techniques are spreading as he encourages growers to emulate his efforts. Other small growers whose wines are worth searching out include Egly-Ouriet, Henri Billiot and Jean Milan. Interestingly, even giant Moët & Chandon recently has released a series of champagnes issued from single vineyards. They run $100 or more a bottle, and while production is only a few thousand bottles each, Moët claims it shows the company's interest in terroir.

These champagnes are not meant as aperitifs. They are best sipped while enjoying a festive meal. Don't serve them chillingly cold. They are meant to be served only cool, in order to allow their full flavors to flourish.

At their best, though, these wine-like bubblies offer a refreshing new take on the old holiday favorite. They come with a welcome complexity of flavors; in Selosse's case, delightful notes of dried fruits, caramel and coffee with a longer-lasting, pleasant aftertaste spiced with vanilla and honey. Selosse is proof that Champagne isn't just a great holiday wine. It's a great wine.