Go for the Cheese Steak, Stay for the Culture

Some walls are covered practically from floor to ceiling with masterpiece paintings, displayed cheek by jowl with hand-wrought ironwork, African carvings, Chinese scrolls, Amish blanket chests and early-American ceramics. No informational labels are provided for the individual pieces, encouraging viewers to focus on form rather than fame.

From Bonito Flakes to Cheese Steaks

Philadelphia is a good town for eating everything from hot pretzels to haute cuisine.

At the top end, Chef Georges Perrier's Le Bec-Fin continues to garner raves, though it's been around since before the bicentennial. The French-inspired menu changes seasonally. For summer, a $90 four-course prix fixe menu is available on weeknights; six courses, at $138, and 10 courses, at $165, are also offered nightly.

At Morimoto, diners can order Japanese fare a la carte or omakase, which is a chef's choice tasting menu ($80-$120 per person).

For more casual dining, consider Citrus Bistro for vegetarian and seafood dishes; the Standard Tap for a wide selection of beers and an eclectic jukebox; or Sabrina's Cafe for a tasty brunch.

And there's always the city's signature sandwich, the cheese steak: thin slices of grilled beef with a choice of cheese and toppings -- depending on the venue, ranging from pizza sauce, grilled mushrooms, peppers or onions, spicy cherry peppers, or sliced tomatoes and shredded lettuce. Ignore the oft-repeated rumor that Cheez Whiz is mandatory, and opt for the less salty and more flavorful provolone.

Places like Geno's, Pat's and Jim's get a lot of attention, but many Philadelphians favor other sources for their cheese steak fix. Stroll through any neighborhood in the city and you'll find tasty offerings, including Oscar's (1524 Sansom St.) in Center City, Tony Luke's in South Philly, Dalessandro's (600 Wendover St.) in Roxborough, and McNally's in Chestnut Hill.

Where to Stay

Philadelphia is renowned for its historical sites. But by choosing your lodgings carefully, it's possible to indulge in a little history without lining up to see the Liberty Bell or Independence Hall.

Housed in the city's first skyscraper, Loews Philadelphia Hotel contains more than 600 rooms and suites, a private concierge library, a business center and a spa and fitness center, and offers services ranging from baby-sitting to dog walking.

	If I Had a Bell

The International Style building, which was once a bank's headquarters, has a sleek, midcentury look. Enjoy a panoramic view, including the statute of William Penn atop City Hall, while relaxing in the Presidential Suite's luxury bath.

The rooms at the Park Hyatt at the Bellevue are decorated with an old-world warmth and charm in keeping with the 1904-vintage National Historic Landmark building's beaux-arts style. In addition to the standard four-star amenities, guests have complimentary access to the Sporting Club, a 93,000-square-foot fitness center.

Five-star luxuries with a country-inn feel are offered at the 23-room boutique hotel Rittenhouse 1715, situated in a carriage house designed by architect Walter Cope around 1910. The two-story Presidential Suite features a spiral staircase leading to a king-size loft bedroom, a fireplace, luxury bathroom and powder room. Complimentary wine receptions, breakfast, and parlor games are included, and on-site spa services are available.

Other boutique hotels, some of them in buildings dating back to the 18th century, include the Alexander Inn, the Morris House Hotel and the Thomas Bond House.

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