Hot for Cheese

	Fire Up the Cheese
	Photo: Raclette Suisse

As French gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin once said, "A dinner which ends without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye." That may be the case, but why wait for the end of the meal?

Cheese can aptly be the centerpiece, in the classic Swiss forms of fondue and raclette. The etymology of each provides a hint of their differences: fondre and racler are French for "to melt" and "to scrape," respectively.

Although fondue and raclette are drawn from a long and storied tradition, they easily lend themselves to any social gathering today, according to Thomas Hauswirth, marketing manager for Swiss cheeses importer Emmi.

There are myriad configurations of vessels and serving sets for fondue and raclette, but they actually are both quite simple to prepare. All of the cheeses you'll need can be found at high-end cheesemongers or online, and any desired accompaniments in the produce department.

Fondues and Don'ts

Arguably one of Switzerland's best-known exports (no, the little lady on the instant hot cocoa package doesn't count), fondue underwent a renaissance in the U.S. in the 1970s. Many of you now have an unopened set tucked away in a closet somewhere, so there's no excuse not to dust off the pot and throw a fondue party.

There are several versions of fondue, including chocolate and bourguignonne (meat) varieties, but cheese is the classic. And it's the safest for an uninitiated crowd -- take it from a friend who, while on a trip to Switzerland, discovered halfway through a bourguignonne platter that he'd been dipping and devouring slices of horsemeat.

Although it's possible to concoct endless variations, traditional fondue contains a mix of Emmenthaler and Gruyere cheeses, melted along with a bit of white wine and Kirsch (cherry brandy) for flavor, and some flour or cornstarch to prevent the mixture from separating. Some Swiss regions also add garlic, or a different blend of cheeses.

Equally as numerous are the rules of fondue etiquette, which, considering the communal nature of the dish, is not surprising. No matter how intimate you are with your guests, putting the whole fondue fork into your mouth or double-dipping is discouraged; however, if a piece of food you've speared should fall irretrievably into the cheesy depths, you're required to kiss the person next to you.

Fondue is prepared on the stove, then transferred to a heated dish for leisurely serving. Try Spring's orange and white chalet fondue pot ($95), or the classic designed caquelon Swiss fondue set ($125), both traditional ceramic pots. For a more modern look, check out Bodum's slick stainless steel fondue set ($90).

The only other tip is to have everyone stir the mixture each time they dip, to help keep the sauce smooth.

And save room for the best part, referred to as la religieuse ("the nun") -- the browned, crisp crust of cheese left at the bottom of the pot.

The Raclette Set

From rustic medieval origins, raclette has made the transition to chic dinner-party fare.

This lesser-known cousin of fondue hails from shepherds in the Valais region of Switzerland, who would heat half wheels of raclette -- a semifirm, creamy, cow's milk cheese -- in open fires or alongside stoves. The softened cheese was then scraped onto bread or boiled potatoes for a simple yet filling meal.

Today, this humble dish has proved ideal for easy and elegant entertaining, thanks to portable tabletop raclette grill sets. A top griddle has space to heat vegetables or thin cuts of meat, while small trays rest underneath, holding individual portions of cheese -- ideal for those who would prefer to avoid any of fondue's double-dipping or dropping debacles. (There are also much larger units ($285) that simply hold a half or quarter wheel of raclette cheese and have a heating element directed right at the cut surface.)

	Sacre Vache: Where It All Begins

Swissmar offers an electric, granite-topped stainless steel or copper classic raclette party grill ($150) that's fit for a crowd; or try the round-griddle cervin ($175). For a more intimate affair, try the diminutive, candle-powered mini set for two ($60).

Usually available for two to eight people, these compact, quick-heating units provide complete food preparation and serving in one.

They may not be as authentic as an Alpine campfire, but they do make for stress-free party fare. All the host has to do is select and, at most, parboil some of the vegetables -- the guests will happily assist with the rest.

Make Your Own

Serving raclette is virtually effortless. To prep, simply boil potatoes in salted water until tender. Drain them, peel if desired, then set aside and cover to keep warm. Slice the raclette cheese in quarter-inch-thick pieces, and place on the table along with sliced seasonal vegetables (endive, carrots, mushrooms, peppers, leeks or shallots), nuts, pickles and a pepper grinder.

Place a potato or two on each diner's dish, and then sit back and relax -- your work is done.

Guests can place any desired accompaniments on the grill, then layer them with a slice of raclette in their tray. The pans are then slid underneath the grill, and patience is pushed to the limit as the scent of melting raclette wafts through the room. Once the cheese is bubbly and starting to brown on the sides, it's ready -- scrape everything in the pan over the plated potato. Repeat until immobilized.

Cheese fondue requires slightly more preparation beforehand, but is still very simple; see recipe at right. Traditionally, bite-size pieces of crusty bread, fresh fruit (apples, pears, grapes) or vegetables (carrots, asparagus, steamed broccoli) are set out alongside.

For serving, all guests have their own fondue fork or skewer, so they can dip to their heart's content.

And what of the tradition of serving white wine along with fondue or raclette?

Many Swiss will insist that it's essential to aid in the digestion of all that cheese, and that water is a no-no -- however, unless they've perished in the attempt with an empty bottle of Evian clutched in hand, there are no scientists currently backing that up.

Try Fendant, Reisling or Sauvignon Blanc or even black or herbal tea (mint or rose hip) to accompany your relaxed repast.

Fondue and raclette are about enjoying the food as much as the company -- "synonymous, above all, with conviviality and shared experiences amongst friends," as Hauswirth says.

It may take some readjustment for the average American diner, but you'll find there are few better ways to spend a long cold night than an unhurried feast of warm cheese, bite by bite.

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