Cheers to Mondavi

Peter Jr. eventually had a hand in all aspects of wine production, from viniculture to tasting, but then he left for Stanford University, where he earned a master's in engineering management and an M.B.A. However, "wine ran in my blood, and I immediately came back [to it]. It's a wonderful business to be in," he said.

Now, decades later, his responsibilities certainly have increased: Peter Jr. and Marc are spending $21.6 million to replant the 850-acre Mondavi estate.

The plans include converting to sustainable organic agriculture, restoring fallow acreage with native vegetation and renovating a landmark building on the grounds.

Peter Jr. is aiming for 100% organic certification within five years. Organic wines are free from pesticides, herbicides and fertilization, and he wants to convert the vineyard in part to protect the natural environment.

Many Napa Valley wineries, like his uncle Robert's was, are acquired by international wine conglomerates, but Peter is resolute in his intention to remain independent. "I'm a control freak. I want to be immersed in everything, and I really want the winery to be a reflection of the family," he said.

I asked whether he was planning on passing the winery on to his two children and continuing the family-owned tradition.

"They are still young to decide at this point; I would want them to pursue their [own] ultimate endeavors," he replied.

Mondavi's Picks

The Mondavi winery sells two brands of wine: Charles Krug, which focuses on Bordeaux-style reds, and C.K. Mondavi, which encompasses Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots.

Peter Jr. speaks about all his wines enthusiastically, but he told me that one of his favorites is the Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, because of how true the final taste is to the grapes.

The ripe grapes were picked at night, because they would otherwise deteriorate at higher temperatures. They were then minimally handled, which yielded a wine with fruit notes of peach, green apple, melon, banana, guava and grapefruit.

	Generations of Mondavis

This wine was not put in barrels but rather stainless-steel tanks, which allowed the flavor stay as true as possible to the grapes and not pick up any other overtones. The 2006 vintage is priced at $18 a bottle.

Another of Peter Jr.'s favorites is the 2003 Family Reserve Generations, a Bordeaux red varietal which includes a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc Malbec. This rich wine has deep notes of nutmeg, licorice, mint and wild-berry jam. "Making this wine didn't happen overnight; it took about two years to make," Peter Jr. explained. It retails for $42 a bottle.

"There is a beautiful romantic side of the wine business, but it's important not to lose track of the business side," Peter Jr. said -- good advice for future wine proprietors.

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