Catch On to Cachaca

Berlic used the tequila model when he created his flagship product, Beleza Pura, which means "pure beauty," in 2004.

Like rum, cachaca comes from the sugar cane plant, but while rum is made from molasses, cachaca is reduced from fresh sugar cane juice. According to Brazilian law, it has to be made in Brazil to be called as such.

For Beleza Pura, Berlic uses the best hand-cut sugar cane and a column distillation process that doesn't strip the product. "We wanted a pure product, but not vodka," says Berlic.

Cachaca is a spirit that has been virtually untouched in the U.S., but as the popularity of the caipirinha grows, cachaca awareness is making domestic sales finally rival the rest of the world's -- Europe alone imports almost half a million cases a year, says Berlic.

Not Created Equal

Perhaps the most important lesson Berlic has learned is that not all cachacas are created equal. To please even the most discerning liquor connoisseurs, Berlic had to find the best.

In what Berlic described as a labor of love, he created Beleza Pura, which is known for its long, clean finish and "clear morning after."

In addition, he carefully selected three producers of aged handcrafted artisan cachacas to add to his sales line, each from a different area of Brazil, which utilized different production methods and flavor profiles.

"These are just amazing spirits," says Berlic.

Cachaca Rochinha from Rio de Janeiro, GRM Cachaca from Minas Gerias and Armazem Viera Cachaca from Santa Catarina Island round out Berlic's unrivaled portfolio.

These award-winning handmade cachacas are aged from four to 16 years in single to triple barrels, and their piquant profiles range from raspberry to scotch to vanilla-caramel. Prices range from $70 for the GRM to about $80 for a 12-year aged bottle of Rochinha. Check online for retailers, or try a high-end restaurant near you.

Tale of Two Countries

Leblon's natural cane cachacas also come from Brazil but have a touch of France.

This producer takes a winemaker's approach to cachaca -- it is single-distilled in Brazil and sent to France to rest in vintage cognac casks for one to six months, says Steve Luttmann, Leblon's president and founder.

"We are definitely breaking the paradigm of what cachaca is," says Luttmann. "Purists might be afraid of change and see cachaca for its peasant past, but others see the potential of cachaca to be as good as any scotch.

"There's no question this is the year of the caipirinha," he says. Contact Leblon to purchase ($30 a bottle).

The Caipirnha Craze

Cosmos, eat your heart out! As the cachaca trend continues to gather steam, Manhattan's hippest go for pepper-basil caipirinhas at the downtown Devin Tavern.

Owner John Mautone uses only Excalibur's Beleza Pura (un-aged, for optimal mixing) for his pepper-basil caipirinhas, which include fresh basil, mint and peppercorns in addition to the limes, sugar cane and cachaca of a classic caipirinha.

"It's about fresh, clean flavors," says Mautone.

When I tried the drink, I could smell the tantalizing basil and mint even before I raised the glass to my lips. "Women who would never try a cocktail have one of these and enjoy it," says Mautone. "It's a sexy cocktail."

Even his most discerning customers -- Brazilians -- approve of the Beleza Pura caipirinha as a representative of the Brazilian spirit.

Our own Jim Cramer frequents Devin Tavern, Mautone reveals. Although he wouldn't disclose Cramer's libation of choice, I have no doubt the caipirinha could be among his top picks.

Saude (cheers)!

---

Enjoy the Good Life? Email us with what you'd like to see in future articles.