Unearthing the Truffle

However, Trappe points out that Americans do have one advantage in the truffle realm -- an abundance of potential truffle habitat, much of which is on public land.

"In Europe, most truffle patches are privately owned and access is restricted. There is much less habitat left in Europe than there is here. Truffle productivity in Europe has been declining steadily in the last 50 years, largely due to land use conversion and other habitat degradation," Trappe continues.

This presents an opportunity that some American truffle aficionados are seizing.

Seeds of Change

Money may not grow on trees. But what about underneath them?

Charles Lefevre, president of NATS and New World Truffieres in Eugene, Ore., believes it may. His company sells and ships seedlings -- hazelnut or oak trees -- inoculated with truffle spores, starting around $50 each.

Although Lefevre can't guarantee these trees will produce truffles, he says that if the proper growing conditions are met, the yield after five to seven years can be anywhere from 20 to 100 pounds of truffles per acre (usually about 200 trees). At the current price of $700 a pound, this can prove a lucrative investment.

Lefevre has sold trees across the country, and notes that his clientele tends to be from a similar demographic as those who pioneered the domestic wine industry. "It's people looking for a lifestyle change, who want to make their hobby their job," he explains.

The newly established Oregon Truffle Festival, set for Jan. 26-28, 2007, is an ideal venue to learn more about cultivation as well as celebrate these newcomers to the truffle world (tickets available online).

Peak Season

Luckily, the harvest season is upon us for these dirt-encrusted gems. It runs from October to mid-December for the white truffle, and from late December to March for the black.

Aside from the large annual truffle markets in Italy and France, chefs worldwide are featuring the delicacies in dishes ranging from Thomas Keller's Chestnut and Sunchoke Confit with White Truffle Royale (a transcendent soup poured atop a truffle custard) at Per Se and Daniel Boulud's decadent DB Burger (ground sirloin and short ribs, braised in red wine, foie gras and black truffles) at DB Bistro Moderne.

Tony Esnault, executive chef at the prestigious Alain Ducasse at the Essex House restaurant in Manhattan, has even created a transcendent tasting menu for $320, starring white truffles.

This unforgettable meal contains standouts like the unique White Truffle Impression Pasta -- fresh pasta studded with truffle and paired with sauteed wild mushrooms -- and the simple, elegant Egg and Tartufi -- softly scrambled eggs presented in a delicate eggshell cup, shrouded in truffle shavings.

Handle With Care

	Little Slices of Heaven

If you're lucky enough to get your hands on some truffles, make sure you treat them properly: Store them in the refrigerator, individually wrapped in paper towels. If they do require cleaning, never rinse them under water; simply wipe with a damp cloth or soft brush to remove any surface dirt or grit before preparing.

And as Chef Tony Esnault points out, truffles loses about 10% of their weight overnight, so buy them only just before you plan to serve them. Truffles truly are designed to be enjoyed fresh.

So, slice 'em if you got 'em, whether into a cream sauce, over a potato gratin or risotto, or as an intoxicating accompaniment to any delicately flavored dish. The most important thing to remember is to add white truffles only right before serving, so as not to overly heat and destroy their nuanced fragrance and flavor.

On the other hand, black truffles can withstand cooking, and are a perfect complement for stronger flavors: red meats or game, foie gras and aged cheeses.

However you serve up truffles on your holiday table this year -- or horde for the ultimate self-indulgent treat -- it will be a meal to remember.

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