Weekend Getaway: Western Massachusetts

There really is virtually every cuisine imaginable in this town: The Lhasa Cafe (159 Main St.) serves traditional Tibetan food; Amanouz (44 Main St.) features superb Moroccan fare (be sure to try the couscous dishes, authentically served from tagines).

There's even barbeque -- Smokin' Lil's (7 Strong Ave.). Or try the intimate Green Street Cafe (62 Green St.) for a cozy French dinner.

Keep in mind that many restaurants and cafes in Northampton operate on a cash-only basis -- make sure you visit the ATM before venturing out to try the local cuisine.

And no meal in Northampton is complete without a visit to Herrell's Ice Cream (8 Old South St.).

Owner Steve Herrell is said to have invented the dangerous practice of mixing crushed-up candy and cookies into ice cream in the late 1970s. On weekend evenings, the line at Herrell's often spills out to the sidewalk, but the ice cream is well worth the wait. Thick and creamy, with such unique flavors as burnt sugar and butter, Herrell's is not to be missed.

Foraging for Foliage

Perhaps the only thing Northampton lacks are spectacular views of foliage. The leaf-peeping prime varies, but usually falls between the third week in September and the third week in October.

For those spectacular views, head north from Northampton on route 91. Hop off at exit 24, then head east on route 116 for about a mile to the stunning Sugarloaf Mountain.

You can either drive or hike to the top, but if you choose to hike, make sure to wear proper footwear. The trail to the top is short, but very steep.

From the peak, you'll have a pristine view of the Berkshire Hills, the Connecticut River and Mike's Maze. Each year, Warner Farms carves a different picture into a corn field that also serves as a maze. (This year, the maze is a portrait of the iconic chef chef Julia Child, who died in 2004.)

Continue up 91 north to Greenfield for access to other classic hikes and views. Take exit 26, then route 2 west to Shelburne Falls. On the way, stop at the High Ledges for a gentle walk and rewarding views of Mount Greylock.

	Glacial Potholes, Shelburne Falls

Continue on route 2 west to visit the scenic downtown Shelburne Falls. Be sure to see the Glacial Potholes of Salmon Falls, and take a walk over the famous Bridge of Flowers -- a trolley bridge from 1908 that has been transformed into a garden paradise.

There are also plenty of antique stores and galleries on Bridge Street and Main Street, featuring the best local artisans have to offer.

After all that activity, head back to Greenfield to relax at the People's Pint (24 Federal St.). This local favorite's own home-brewed beer pairs superbly with its hearty New England fare. (Again, like many area restaurants, the People's Pint only takes cash.)

Local Color

If you prefer a quieter pace and easy access to the many great hikes in the Valley, stay in one of the region's bed and breakfasts.

Try The Bird's Nest ($95-$125) in Buckland, just outside of Shelburne Falls. A good night's rest is guaranteed in this secluded spot, and not surprisingly, birds will be your only alarm clock -- other than the enticing scents of the made-to-order breakfast wafting up the stairs. The hosts are well-versed in all the area's attractions and will even send you on your way with delicious homemade snacks.

Shelburne Falls also has several bed and breakfasts: try the Johnson Homestead ($75-$110) or Six Maple Street ($90-$100; 413-625-6870).

	Riding at Mt. Toby

And over the weekend of Sept. 16, the town of Orange (30 miles east of Shelburne Falls) hosts the Garlic and Arts Festival.

Live music, arts booths -- and, of course, garlic -- will abound at this annual gala.

There is even a free shuttle bus on Saturday that will run between the Garlic Festival and the Athol Fall Festival, which features antiques, crafts and a large farmer's market.

And before you head back home, check out the local color up close, on horseback. Mt. Toby Stables (413-548-4949) in Leverett offers one of the best trail rides around, leading you on a unforgettable path through the serene Mt. Toby State Forest.

Saddle up, and let the Happy Valley cast its spell.

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