Transcendence in India

08/21/06 - 12:00 PM EDT

Robert Martorana

The day after I arrived, Samuel invited everyone in the village to a dinner to dedicate the orphanage.

Samuel fed about a thousand people rice, vegetables and a small sweet roll, each portion on a fresh green banana leaf. Everyone ate with their hands, and afterward, the leaves went onto the compost pile.

The rest of my stay, I was served three hot meals a day in my room.

Samuel's wife Grace went out of her way to ensure there was always something I could eat, and there was always cold bottled water. Their teen-age son Joshua stood nearby to make sure that I had everything I needed.

Culture Shock

Before my trip, I prepared for just about anything. I had taken pills for malaria and a vaccine for typhoid. I brought extra medication and three pocket-sized flashlights (which came in handy, since the electricity failed every day).

But nothing can prepare you for the oppressive heat and humidity in South India.

At the dedication dinner, I managed to sweat completely through my ceremonial attire -- and this was in early September, which is after the hottest part of the year. It was consistently over 90 degrees, with nearly 100% humidity, even at night.

Naturally, sleeping was a big challenge. I stayed in Samuel's house, so I was lucky to have a ceiling fan. The marble floor also helped, and I found out this is common to homes in the area. (Marble stays quite cool, and local quarries offer an inexpensive supply.)

The windows didn't have glass or screens, but rather metal bars and wooden security shutters. Thankfully, insects were sparse, and I had no trouble with mosquitoes. Small geckos occasionally darted across the walls, but they were more of a curiosity than a nuisance.

Travelers who want to avoid the heat should visit in January or February, when this region averages 70 to 80 degrees.

Avoid travel during October through December, as this is monsoon season. And don't even think of going during May or June unless you are prepared for temperatures well over 100 degrees.

More Than a Game

During my week at the orphanage, I had plenty of time to play with the children. Despite the language barrier -- most people in Andhra Pradesh speak Telugu -- this proved the best way to bond with them.

I did learn a few words of Telugu, and the children all called me "Dad," which is a sign of affectionate respect. It seemed to me that English is widely embraced in the region, and is no longer associated with the colonial rule under the British Raj.

Frisbees were a big hit, especially one that glowed with optical fibers. On Sunday evening, when it got dark, I put the illuminated Frisbee on a wall, and we watched it change colors. The kids quickly memorized the pattern and called out the colors by name.

Granted, it may seem silly to have two dozen people staring at a glowing Frisbee. But keep in mind, there are no computers, TVs or even radios to be found here.

A Smile Needs No Translation

I also brought a small black superball with me, and we improvised a quick game: The church which housed the orphange had no furniture (attendees sit on the floor), and it had a very high ceiling.

I divided the children into boys and girls teams and let the ball loose. As you can imagine, a black ball on a dark floor is almost impossible to see at night, and the kids went crazy trying to find it. After a while, though, they learned to listen for the ball instead. (The girls won the game.)

My own son has a TV, computer and three different video-game systems. But I bet the orphans had more fun that night with a 99-cent rubber ball.

I know I did.



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