Steamboat Into Stellar Skiing

Searching for a shot of winter Olympic spirit? A genuine dose of Steamboat Springs, Colo., might be the perfect solution. With March's notorious big snows yet to come (and snowfall already surpassing the 334-inch average), the skiing in Steamboat is epic.

Don't let Steamboat's rustic ranch ambiance fool you: This is "Ski Town U.S.A.," home to more winter Olympians than any other town in North America -- that's 69 athletes in 16 winter games. Steamboat sent 20 hometown skiers, snowboarders and ski jumpers plus four coaches to Torino, including Todd Lodwick and Johnny Spillane in Nordic combined, Travis Mayer in freestyle moguls and Alan Alborn in ski jumping -- the only American to advance in that event.

With the Olympics winding down, Steamboat will continue reveling in the 27 feet of famously light and fluffy "champagne powder" snow it's already received this year.

Set in a wide, high mountain valley in the Rocky Mountains, Steamboat Springs is dominated by picturesque working ranches and 10,658-foot Mt. Werner, site of the sprawling 2,965-acre Steamboat Ski Area.

Named for three-time Olympian and local cowboy Buddy Werner, the mountain offers more than 3,600 vertical feet of aspens, pines and wide-open glades. Steamboat's terrain caters to powder hounds, yet easily accommodates those who prefer groomers. Dip into the revered Shadows or Closets for unparalleled tree-skiing that feels bottomless. Or visit the gentle glades with outstanding vistas off the top of the Sunshine lift for a solid stash of intermediate slopes.

For big air, check out the daunting Mavericks Superpipe, North America's longest half pipe, and the adjacent terrain park. Lift tickets cost $74 per day -- and kids ski free with a five or more day lift ticket.

For a taste of the backcountry (at $359 per day), spend a ski day off-piste with Steamboat Powder Cats. This is the kind of snow that ski dreams and ski movies are made of -- even Warren Miller has filmed skiers here.

Custom state of the art snowcats deliver small groups of skiers to prime slopes on Buffalo Pass, then expert backcountry guides steer skiers and riders down some of deepest untracked snow in the Rockies. Grins are unavoidable, even when you have to break for lunch -- a decadent spread in a remote and toasty log cabin.

Strawberry Park Hot Springs

Even if you don't ski, take in the vast wild and open landscape that envelopes Steamboat. Early morning hot air balloon rides, with peculiar "box winds" that keep balloon flights inside the Yampa Valley and an inversion that surprisingly makes it warm, are a memorable adventure.

A winter horseback ride with Ray Heid at Del's Triangle 3 Ranch ($65 for a two-hour ride) is one of the finest ways to get the lay of the land -- not only is the scenery stupendous, but it's hard to beat six generations of trailside tales. After all, Heid grew up riding horses and racing skis with more than a handful of Steamboat Olympians.

No matter which peak you ski (or horse you ride), weary legs eventually beg to come down. Slopeside Grill, a lively ski-in bar at the base of the ski area, has tasty post-ski beers and pub grub, while especially good sushi and fine sake can be found right next door at Saketumi. A short walk away in Ski Time Square, margaritas at Dos Amigos (try the venerable "Chicarita") are potent and delicious, and the Tugboat's nightlife is legendary.