Steeped in the Joys of Tea

For green and white teas, however, the water should be under the boiling point, 160 to 190 degrees Fahrenheit. These two types of teas are less processed and much more delicate than black and oolong; therefore, boiling water will produce an overbrewed, "bitter" cup of green tea, which my unofficial polls reveal as the reason many people claim to dislike it.

A good guideline for those who may not have a food thermometer handy is to watch the water on the stove: As soon as steam begins to curl off the surface, the water is hot enough. Another option is to let fully boiled water cool for a few minutes before using it.

How long to steep your selection? Again, it depends somewhat on individual tastes, but there are some essential guidelines.

Black and oolong teas need several minutes to allow their strong flavors to develop, usually in the range of three to six minutes. For green teas, two to three minutes is sufficient to bring out their grassy, vegetal overtones. White teas need only brew for one to two minutes to preserve their delicate floral taste.

A few teapots that not only facilitate the brewing process, but also are stunning examples of kitchenware design, can be found at Bodum.

The Shin Cha teapot, for instance, has a stainless steel inner chamber, large enough to allow a maximum amount of water to come into contact with the leaves. It also has a stopper to easily halt the brewing at just the right time.

Not serving a crowd? Try the Yo-Yo, an individual infuser that boasts a similarly ingenious design. I use it every single day, and have been known to bring it on vacation, even unabashedly pulling it and my stash out at restaurants during breakfast.

Not for the Hoi Polloi

For those of you who are most familiar with a dusty bag of Constant Comment, trying any of the teas below in their loose form will be an eye-opening experience. Be sure to buy in small quantities, and keep these special selections refrigerated to preserve their freshness and aroma.

Earl Grey (India): the classic black tea; strong and aromatic, due to essence of bergamot.

Darjeeling (India): alluring copper color; crisp black tea flavor both woodsy and lightly floral.

Golden Oolong (China): smooth, well-balanced flavor with a faint sweetness.

Wuyi (China): rich, complex-tasting oolong; unique, slighty smoky fragrance.

Sencha (Japan): an everyday aromatic green tea, refreshing grassy taste and bright emerald color.

Genmaicha (Japan): an unusual blend of green tea and roasted rice, resulting in a deep flavor with warm, nutty overtones.

White Pearls (China): tightly coiled white tea leaves that unfurl into a sweetly fragrant, pale golden brew.

And for the advanced tea drinkers only: Uji Gyokuro. Its sweet, vernal, creamy flavor may not impress the inexperienced, but this Japanese green tea, which is shaded by a veil for the last few weeks before it's harvested, is quietly outstanding. At over $15 an ounce, however, it's definitely the one to save for special occasions.

Check your local tea shop (on the off chance it hasn't been overtaken by Starbucks (SBUX) or visit Ito En, The Republic of Tea or In Pursuit of Tea to order online -- the only danger is that you may never be able to go back to bags.

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