Chocolate Gourmets Say It With Spice

Southern California's Chuao Chocolatier uses only chocolate from Venezuela because, says co-owner Michael Antonorsi, it is more aromatic and fruitier than chocolate from Africa, the largest producer of the world's raw material for chocolate. "If it's not a 'wow,' it's not Chuao," Antonorsi likes to say.

But Chuao's most bizarre bonbon -- Picante -- drew a "whoa!" from three of our tasters. "I'm not sure why someone would go out and buy that," said one taster of the dark chocolate-filled raisin fondue and Napa Valley Cabernet caramel, spiced with pasilla chili and cayenne pepper. Surprisingly, our raisin-averse taster praised Picante's fruity flavor.

The Chevre confection -- a melange of pear William, goat cheese and crushed black pepper butter cream -- offered a smoother experience. The flavors didn't hit all at once but began with the chocolate and then the cheese, complemented by mild pepper.

Back on the farm in Jacksonville, Ore., only Lillie Belle Farms combines organic fruit with chocolate-making. Owner Jeff Shepherd's one-man show grows raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and marionberries over 2 acres and then enrobes them in chocolate.

Valentine's Day options are pink-striped Raspberry Ganache, which will appeal to the true fruit-and-chocolate fanatic. Another eclectic offering is Banana Ganache, with its Escher-like, yellow design. One taster liked the look and texture of the chocolate but had trouble discerning the banana flavor.

Jacques, John and the Chocolate Factory

Both the East and West Coasts are graced with companies now making their own gourmet chocolate on a small scale.

At Jacques Torres Haven in downtown Manhattan, you don't need a gold ticket to watch cacao beans being spun into chocolate ambrosia.

"Our secret is simple product, simple recipe, simple process," says the amiable Frenchman, "at a reasonable price."