Chocolate Gourmets Say It With Spice

Haut, Cut It Out!

At Christopher Norman Chocolates, the first business to move back to New York's revitalized financial district post-Sept. 11, the confections are all about the senses and the founders' sense of fun. For Chief Chocolate Officer (no kidding) and painter John Downs, chocolate is a canvas that objectifies chocolate as fine, delectable and interactive art for everyone.

Wild Amerene Italian Cherries dipped in dark, then bittersweet ($40 for 8 ounces) are a successful marriage of tart and sweet. A Smoked Pepper morsel elicited a collective "no mas." The White Chocolate Lemongrass bar was a surprise hit. And we knew we'd reach consensus on the Hazelnut Gianduja bar if only we could pronounce it.

But with such an infinite palette of flavors, we just had to ask, what didn't go with chocolate? "Sun-dried tomatoes," said Downs. "That was really awful."

For your inner Hannibal Lechter -- or Valentine -- there's a truffle-filled edible heart ($65).

At the Top of Their Game

At San Francisco's Ferry Building, a showcase of Northern California's bounty, Michael Recchiuti's hand-stamped confections beseech you to bite. Known for its infusions of herbs, teas and whole spices, this confectioner, like a master vintner, aims for harmony and balance.

Recchiuti Confections Hand-stamped pieces with herbs and spices.

Our tasters thought they got it right, but with the caveat that if you don't like tarragon, say, you won't like it with chocolate. Star Anise-Pink Peppercorn titillated; Cassis Strata was nicely nuanced; Lemon Verbena was a bit too inspired and the PMS de resistance was Force Noir, a vanilla bean-infused dark chocolate ganache. Kids will adore the S'mores kit, and their palates will stretch for Fleur de Sel Caramel. The real sweetheart deal: $425 for a yearlong membership to the Chocolate Club.