Custom Eyes

Elzy Kolb

	Nerd No More

Quick, decisive action definitely has a place in our lives, but sometimes it's better to consider our options and savor many possibilities before making up our minds.

Choosing eyeglasses is one of those times.

Chain-store ads trumpet budget-priced glasses delivered in a hurry, and mass marketers offer racks of ready-made models.

But our most constant accessory deserves more time and thought than a hurried lunchtime decision.

And it may not be realistic to expect a pair of glasses that you'll wear for years with comfort and confidence to cost less than dinner for two.

"[High-end] glasses could be as much as $1,000 off the shelf, depending on the lens," says Ruth Handel of L.A. Eyeworks, an internationally distributed eyewear designer and manufacturer.

Choosing from among the styles offered at the average optical shop or eyewear boutique isn't always easy.

For the nearsighted, trying on glasses involves peering at a blurry image in the mirror and hoping for the best. Some shops have temporary lenses on hand that slip in behind the frames so shoppers can get a clearer impression of how they look -- an improvement, but not a flawless solution.

So consider taking along a friend whose opinion you trust. Or arm yourself with a digital camera, and take photos while modeling your favorite choices for later scrutiny.

Eye on Options

Manhattan image consultant Laurie Krauz says it's not unusual for her clients to try on 20 or more styles before coming up with the perfect match.

The ideal glasses are a "marriage of a person's taste, lifestyle and the shapes and colors they're attracted to," Krauz says.

Body type makes a difference, too, so she prefers taking her clients to shops that provide a full-length mirror. "Focusing just on the shape of the face is an enormous mistake," she says. "The head-to-toe look affects the overall choice. Small glasses may look silly on a person with a small face but a tall, broad body."

Krauz advises, "Stand ... away from a full-length mirror. Give yourself a moment to just 'be.' Until you think you look great, don't buy the product, no matter what it is. Get different views of yourself: Look at yourself in a handheld mirror, go outside or near a window, since the lighting in stores is not always great."

Glasses send a message about personality and personal style. "The preview for The Good Shepherd had no less than 12 pairs of glasses in it. They conveyed the time frame, who the people were, that these were serious guys," Handel says.

	L.A. Eyeworks Juarez ($420)

She points out that you could be practically anywhere on earth, wearing an outfit as neutral as jeans and a T-shirt, and when "you put on glasses ... an informed choice makes a statement."

The ways in which we live, work and play have a role in making that informed choice.

Sometimes it's asking too much to expect a single pair of glasses to go with every outfit, feel comfortable in every season, and be appropriate for every activity and event.

You may be a fixture on the club scene and have the personal charisma to pull off flamboyant, bleeding-edge styles. However, "glasses that would suit that side of the personality might not work on Wall Street," Krauz says. "You can go with a style without going with a radical version of the style. You can tone it down without looking like a nerd."

Buying several pairs is an option. "A lot of times people will buy in multiples," Krauz says. "Glasses ought to be treated like jewelry. After all, you have more than one pair of earrings."

Lens Crafters

Just as no one wants to show up at an important event in an outfit worn by another guest, most of us don't want to be caught with the same specs as someone else.

Exploring the custom route is one way to go, as is keeping an eye out for styles that are produced in limited quantities. "Sometimes we make a very few units just because the designers want to do it," Handel explains. "The designers might come up with something that's red and pink with blue splashes, and we might make 10 pairs."

The simplest level of customization is swapping bridges (the nose piece) and temples (the side pieces) from a couple of three-part frames, mixing and matching colors and styles.

Changing the lens shape is also possible. "We have as many as seven lens shapes," Handel says. "If a client doesn't like those shapes, we'll work with them to find the right shape."

Dyeing lenses is another option; a broad spectrum of colors in solids, graduated tints and even stripes is available.

It's also possible to modify existing frames. "We can dye frames, say half-red, half-green," Handel says. "They can be etched or engraved. We've drilled, soldered, cut and glued things on, including diamonds and feathers. An 18-karat gold finish is easily done -- the look is very, very luxurious."

If you have a special event coming up in six or eight months, that might be enough time to have a pair of specs designed and made from scratch.

In this multistep process, a client works with designers to develop a sketch, materials are obtained, and prototypes are sent to the L.A. Eyeworks production facility in the Italian Alps. "It can take months. ... It's an involved and costly process from the ground up," Handel says.

Handel is reluctant to talk specifics about the cost of custom work.

	L.A.Eyeworks Showdown ($325)

The price depends on what the person had in mind, she says. "Titanium is very, very costly. ... Plastic is more malleable, so it can be done more easily." And Handel doesn't flinch when asked if custom glasses could go as high as $10,000. "People see glasses as part of their wardrobe. They're a significant fashion purchase," she says.

For some, it's definitely a worthwhile investment. There are fewer items more personal than eyeglasses. Those of us who rely on them wear them during the majority of our waking hours. They enable us to see the world, and, let's hope, they flatter the face that we present to others.

"Glasses are something you marry," Krauz says. "It's a big purchase, so make your decision carefully." Even if you're not the shop-till-you-drop type, keep an open mind about trying on styles in more than one place.

So grab your digital camera and your most patient and brutally honest friend, and hit the eyewear boutiques to shop for the newest you. If you don't find exactly what you're looking for, ask if modifications are possible -- it may be time for you to sport custom eyewear as unique as your face.

---

Enjoy the Good Life? Email us with what you'd like to see in future articles.

---