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Grilling With the Guru of Good Life

Rocco DiSpirito

A sophisticated friend of mine looked confused recently when he saw me grab a perfectly beautiful log of white birch from his fireplace, and head for his back yard.

I'm not a pyromaniac by nature -- my intention was just to bring some life to the barbeque he was throwing.

At almost every party I go to, I inevitably end up doing something in the kitchen. This dinner was no different, but in this case, I was focused on flavor.

My friend, the host, is the type of guy who has everything, including a very expensive, very beautiful, yet completely anemic gas grill.

I wasn't about to allow him to cook his carefully selected organic steaks and gorgeous fillets of wild salmon on a surface that doesn't deserve to be graced with such fine ingredients.

You see, by adding a piece of wood to his wannabe grill, I effectively set it up to deliver flavors that would soar through the stratosphere.

Yes, you can put wood on a gas grill! And yes, it will make a big difference.

Gas vs. charcoal or wood grilling: it isn't quite the Yankees vs. Mets rivalry, but it's arguably the greatest debate in cooking.

I have moderated this debate before, most recently on the radio, and it always turns out the same.

Everyone agrees gas is convenient, but then again, so are Pop Tarts.

And for those of you who can spend thousands of dollars on a new grill, consider this: It's not a Maybach!

Buy a house with the money, and cook on a simple charcoal or wood grill instead.

Grilling is the oldest form of cooking, and it hasn't changed much since prehistoric times: It's the perfect blend of simple yet effective cooking that just about anyone can do.

And it's easily the most flavorful way to cook.

Gas	Charcoal/Wood
larger investment: around $150-$5,000 and up	less expensive: around $50-$450
heats up rapidly	requires up to 30 minutes to properly heat
highest temperature about 550° -- barely enough to char	highest temperature 1000° plus -- great for charring
steady and consistent heat	heat more difficult to control (must add fuel)
easy to clean and maintain	more difficult to clean
can use year-round	dependent on weather conditions
nothing tangible to see or tend	provides the sensory experience of a real fire
food tastes good	food tastes amazing

The superb flavor derives from the smoky gases released when charcoal (wood that has been carbonized and compressed) or wood burns and turns into embers.

The burning fuel and resulting smoke yield both high heat and incredibly rich flavor.

Those cross-hatch lines on grilled food aren't just for looks; that's where the proteins get converted to sugar through caramelization, and where the grilled taste we love so much comes from.

None of this is possible without adequate heat.

But we often get lazy, convenience comes into play and voila -- a lot of sizzle, but not enough savor. So put aside the gas, and go for charcoal.

Light Your Fire

Here are some recommended grills. And for any die-hard gas grill fans, try making the transition with one of the gas-charcoal combo models.

A few classic charcoal grills are the Weber Smokey Joe Gold ($39.99) and the Weber Performer Charcoal Grill ($349). If you're not quite ready to make the leap to charcoal, check out the Weber Performer Charcoal/Gas Grill ($299).

And what to use for lighting your flame? Well, there is a difference between charcoal, charcoal briquettes and wood.

Charcoal is a desirable fuel because it produces a hot, long-lasting, virtually smokeless fire. It burns longer and more steadily than whole wood, but it is much lighter (one-fifth to one-third of its original weight). It is usually marked with the type of wood it is made from, such as hickory or mesquite.

When buying, look for lump coal, which can usually be found near the regular brands of charcoal at a Wal-Mart or grocery store. This is carbonized wood that has no additives, which can help keep unwanted flavors out of your meat and vegetables. Lump charcoal will last indefinitely, so you can buy in bulk and store it if necessary.

Charcoal briquettes are made of two primary ingredients, and several minor ones.

One of the primary ingredients, known as char, is basically traditional charcoal. It is responsible for the briquette's ability to light easily and to produce the desired wood-smoke flavor.

The most desirable raw material for this component is hardwood such as beech, birch, hard maple, hickory, or oak. Some manufacturers also use softwood like pine, or other organic materials such as fruit pits and nut shells.

Some charcoal needs lighter fluid to be lit and some do not; check the packaging for details. I don't like to use lighter fluid, so I seek out for organic charcoal briquettes whenever possible (Whole Foods sells them).

Photo: Henry Leutwyler

Grilling over charcoal is generally considered healthier for humans than grilling over wood. I love gathering some wood from the yard and supplementing the charcoal with just a bit of this added flavor. Premade wood chips are great for this, too.

So what are you waiting for? Light up those grills, and grab the good life!

For more info on Rocco DiSpirito, please visit roccodispirito.com or click here to find his cookbooks.


Note: Rocco is shooting his new TV show, and he's looking for people with a dramatic situation in their lives involving food. Worried about that engagement dinner with your picky mother-in-law? Trying to win back that ex-girlfriend who's still mad at you for cheating on her? Trying to bury the hatchet with that outcast uncle at your family reunion cookout? Rocco wants to help you! Please email with your problem and we will contact you!