The New American Cheese

The fragrant, rich pungency of a washed-rind, the creamy bite of a blue, the gentle sweetness of a sheep's milk ricotta -- all are types of fabulous artisanal cheeses being produced right here in the U.S. Long overshadowed by the venerable cheeses of Europe, domestic artisanal cheeses are growing in popularity and variety. Judging by the varieties we sampled at TheStreet.com, they well deserve the spotlight.

These cheeses have undergone a renaissance in the U.S., due in part to the increased awareness of the local food concept and the growing popularity of food media coverage such as Scripps' (SSP Quote) Food Network, says Marilyn Wilkenson of the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

As opposed to using a mechanized process, artisan cheeses are handcrafted and produced on a small scale. Julie McAskin of Murray's, the renowned New York cheese shop, noted a further distinction of "farmstead" cheeses -- they are sourced and produced entirely on site.

In Europe, McAskin continued, cheese making is an established tradition; channels for production and distribution have been in place for centuries, and much of production is even government-subsidized. In the U.S., however, this infrastructure and financial support is lacking, so American cheese makers must rely on their own acumen. The unexpected benefit, however, is that they are freed from the bounds of tradition and thus, more open to experimentation and innovation -- leading to some truly stunning cheeses.

A Cheese of His Own

Fiscalini Farms' San Joaquin Gold, for instance, was actually created by accident -- a "gold medal mistake," says cheese entrepreneur John Fiscalini. He was trying to follow a recipe for a Fontina cheese, but the proper infrastructure and experience with the aging process was lacking. The surprising result of the first cheese he attempted to produce, however, was a hard cheese with a perfect balance of creaminess and salty tang. It was named after California's San Joaquin Valley, where Fiscalini Farms is located, and continues to be one of their most popular cheeses. It was the hands-down favorite of TheStreet.com staff.

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